In Development - Three season outerwear available two ways.

Welcome to the Hold Fast Bespoke blog.

This is where you can keep abreast of what’s happening in the workroom. I think this announcement will be of interest to many. I’m expanding the range into outerwear! Just look around and see how dismal the standard options have become. If you, like me, are looking for something more than a puffer jacket or a chore coat, let's get to work.

Easy fitting outerwear for three seasons

I love an overcoat. They’re the ultimate statement piece. Long, but not too long. Just long enough for a good swoop. Sadly, they’ve gone into decline; but that’s all about to change here at Hold Fast Bespoke.

The design concept

For ease of movement nothing beats a raglan sleeved coat. They slide on effortlessly over other garments, and you needn't have had to lose an arm at the battle of Waterloo to wear one! I hope you enjoy this sartorial history lesson.

The proposed design details

The overcoat will have a three piece raglan sleeve with a button tab at the cuff. The shoulder seam will be machine topstitched on the standard version, the bespoke would be hand pick stitched.

There will be a concealed button placket with three buttons. I have a personal dislike for a button at the neck as seen here. I mean, who does this? Of course, if you want it, it’s yours at Hold Fast Bespoke.

Buttonholes will be machine made on the standardized coat, hand done on the bespoke.

There will be generous front patch pockets that will never bag out due to their unique construction.

I guarantee that your pockets will never look like this.
It’s all in the construction at Hold Fast Bespoke.

Other details include a generous center back vent for an easy stride, an internal breast pocket on the side of your preference, and maybe even a quirky little ticket pocket. Fully lined, of course.

It all starts with the draft

All bespoke commissions start with a custom drafted pattern. It’s how I was trained. In order to offer a less involved garment I’ll be switching to industry standard measurements. It’s a totally new way of working for me.

Of course fit is still important, so I’ll be assessing the accuracy of the standardized measurements by making a coat to my size, a 40 Short. Here’s hoping it works! If the fit is acceptable I’ll be more confident moving forward with an alternative to full bespoke. Same design, same quality materials; just without the multiple fittings and hand finishing.

The prototype

I’ll be cutting a toile and sewing it up shortly. The fabric is scheduled to arrive tomorrow. Stay tuned to see how it turns out. Fingers crossed.

Cross dyed linen twill, perfect for a Spring coat that can take a Summer vacation, and then come back into your Fall rotation. Casual, Versatile, Sustainable dressing.

Assuming every goes well the coat will be made up in this cross dyed linen twill. One of kind for sure! This slightly slubby mid-weight linen is navy blue in the warp and gold in the weft. The overall effect is, to my eye, a walnut brown with with a copper iridescence. The blue, of course, will make this perfect when worn with dark wash jeans.

Cross dyed linen twill. Navy / Gold combining into a copper iridescence. Hell yes!

I hope you’re as excited about this new development / direction as I am. I’ll be blogging throughout this process, providing you with a “window” into my workroom. You’ll see how quality materials and traditional techniques can combine to make the clothes you really want to wear.

Until next time…