This wool tweed rendition of the Hold Fast Balmacaan is, in my opinion, timeless. Tailored in collaboration with David Wood Clothiers of Portland, Maine; it will never go out of style.

Classic Fabric / Classic Style

This wool tweed rendition of the Hold Fast Balmacaan is, in my opinion, timeless. Tailored in collaboration with David Wood Clothiers of Portland, Maine; it will never go out of style. Made to standardized measurements for a size 42R, it should be roomy enough to wear over a suit jacket or a sweater. Worn alone, there’s an appealing casual “slouchiness” that seems perfect for today’s lifestyle.

This Donegal tweed from the Sherry Tweed bunch won my vote, and the approval of the staff at David Wood. The brilliant orange and blue flecks really make it pop. There’s a decidedly autumnal vibe to the color palette, but it could easily reappear in the Spring for another go round. I love that kind of versatility in the wardrobe. It’s definitely too lightweight for the winters here in the Northeast, but might be perfect for someone in a southern climate.

Luxurious fabrics both outside and in

The tweed really demanded an orange lining, hence this burnt orange silk charmeuse. It really takes the coat to a whole other level. It’s sensuous to the touch, but also surprisingly warm considering its weight. Just one of the advantages of working with natural fibers.

It all starts with the draft

Every garment at Hold Fast Bespoke starts with a pattern draft. This is an example of a raglan sleeve draft in process. This can be done using standardized industry measurement, or a client’s unique measurements. Accuracy is essential to the process, therefore it can be quite time consuming. The individual pattern pieces are cut from a heavy paper stock. I label and retain the pattern to use for the client’s future commissions.

The Inside Story

Every garment at Hold Fast Bespoke is constructed with traditional tailoring materials. The unique properties of these materials contribute to the garment’s structure, shape and durability. You may be familiar with the term “fully canvased”. Here you see a hair canvas being applied to the coat front. A bias cut rayon tape is hand-sewn to the canvas edge to reduce bulk in the seams. The canvas “tab” at the lower right will support the pocket. Bias seams are stabilized with strips of thin lining material to prevent the coat from stretching out of shape. Combined, all these internal parts contribute to a garment’s durability.

Constructed for Longevity

One of the hallmarks of a bespoke garment is its ability to be altered. Extra fabric, known as an inlay, is added to specific seams. This allows the garment to accommodate a changing shape. Here, the lining has been peeled back to show the coat’s side seam. The seam will be machine sewn along the basted line. All the material to the right of the seam will remain in the coat. In total there are approximately four inches of extra material at the waist for any future alterations. There is also extra material in the sleeve bicep. Longevity is a key component to bespoke clothing. Yes, you can have luxury and sustainability.

Clothes made one at a time — Just for You

Huge thanks to David Wood Clothiers for partnering with me on this garment. It will be in their shop at 229 Commercial St. in Portland’s Old Port on June 1st, 2024. I’ll also be there to answer any questions you may have about my services. Can’t be there in person? I’m always available via the contact page. I look forward to hearing from you.