The Hold Fast Overcoat Take 2

Hold Fast Bespoke, Holland & Sherry, and David Wood Clothiers.

Collaborating together for exceptional menswear.

Building on the success of first tweed overcoat, it only made sense to move ahead on its encore. Because the balmacaan style is really a blank canvas, the second edition has some slightly different details. This version has a glorious paisley lining, two inside breast pockets, and a cuff detail on the sleeves. The decorative stitching on the under collar creates a diamond pattern. The back storm shield remains the same.

Breaking away from the more common herringbone, it was decided to go with what’s technically called a broken twill. To see this weave structure used in a wool tweed is both unusual and refreshing. It consists of just two thread colors; what I would describe as a cadet blue warp, woven with a solid black weft. The overall effect is somewhat reminiscent of dark wash denim, and no wonder; broken twill weaves are often found in highly desirable Japanese selvage jeans.

New technology meets classic cloth

For this coat Holland & Sherry applied a water resistant finish to the fabric. It’s by no means a “waterproof” fabric, but raindrops or snow flakes should slide right off. Of course, I had to test it out in the workroom with my spray bottle. Works like a charm, and no wet sheep smell when you arrive at the office or, heaven forbid, a date!

Tailored by hand with traditional materials

Every Hold Fast garment is bench made in my coastal Maine workroom, one garment at a time. I use traditional materials that are unique to the trade. The coat front is fully canvased with hair canvas to preserve its shape and keep it crease free. There are no glued in elements (fusibles) used for structure. Interfacings that are simply glued onto the back of wool tweed can never provide the hand, perform as well, or last as long as a fully canvased garment. The process is time consuming and requires hundreds of stitches, all sewn by hand. Here is a glimpse of what the owner will never see.

Because the details matter

The coat is lined with an exuberant striped paisley twill. It coordinates beautifully with the wool. The effect is timeless, classic, and bound to attract attention. It’s also practical being 100% viscose, which is breathable and resists static. All the buttonholes are handworked. The buttons are genuine horn imported from Italy.

A coat designed and tailored to last a lifetime

The possibilities are endless, and consultations are always free. Don’t hesitate to get in touch. Together we can create something unique and enduring. My goal is to create the clothes you’ll want to reach for time and time again. Cheers!