The Hold Fast Raglan Overcoat - Thoughts on completion

Saying “yes” to the linen overcoat

The Hold Fast raglan sleeved overcoat is complete. Drafted to standard measurements for a men’s size 40 short, the finished coat is comfortable to wear, with just the right amount of “Slouch”. It’s fully canvased; constructed from a cross dyed linen with a full bemberg cupro lining. Roomy enough to wear over a jacket, but seemingly made to just throw on over a shirt and head out the door.

Balmacaan - A tailor’s blank canvas

Sartorially speaking, this style of coat is called a balmacaan. It was name for Balmacaan House, a country estate in Inverness, Scotland. Apparently the house was demolished in 1972, but the coat style endures.

It was popularized by the Duke of Windsor, who apparently preferred it in bold tweed checks and plaids. It was later adopted into the American Ivy League, and has never lost its appeal for being both classic and comfortable, thanks to its raglan sleeves and loose fit.

From a tailor’s point of view it’s a fairly bland garment. The fly front, (which was designed to prevent the buttons from getting snagged in the brush while hunting in the highlands) makes for a somewhat stark appearance.

Button tabs on the sleeves and pockets can really bring the coat to life. Here’s just a sample of what I found online, some of which ended up on my mood-board for the project, and in the finished coat.

Evaluating the details moving forward

Now that the coat is finished I have a chance to reflect on some of the design decisions I made. It’s not only about the visual value of my decisions, but also about the amount of time / labor those decisions involved.

I chose a fairly long sleeve tab / strap. There’s an extra button to cinch the sleeve tighter, but I doubt it would ever be used. It’s really more of a decorative touch. In future iterations I might decide on a shorter tab oriented toward the body rather than away. Similar to the herringbone coat above, but positioned like the rusty check coat. I think it brings more attention to the wearer. Because the coat has a three piece sleeve, it also brings the tab to the front, so it’s more visible. Just a thought at this stage.

The pockets; they’ve been the biggest part of the project to process. The quirky little buttoned pocket was something I really wanted to try. I saw a similar style on Savile Row and was enthralled by it. I still am; but my enthusiasm is countered by the realization that this is a purely visual delight, and not rooted in practicality.

Because there’s an inside breast pocket I would never use this little “ticket pocket”. I would certainly make it for someone else, as long as they understood the amount of time required to add it. In the end, there’s no getting around it; quirkiness comes at a price. Yes, it’s still on the table, just not for me if I wanted another balmacaan, say for Winter in a wool coating.

I love the iridescent quality of cross dyed linen. This photo shows it well.

Patch pockets on a Balmacaan are an unusual choice, and I feel they were worth exploring. However, what appears straight forward is actually more complicated than meets the eye. In the bespoke world there is actually a welt pocket hidden behind the patch. It’s brilliant, but at the same time both labor and time intensive. There is an extensive amount of hand sewing involved.

In the end, there’s a price for the effect. This is why consultations are so valuable, so let’s talk. I truly believe there’s a right look, a right “set of details” for every individual. It’s just matter of nailing it down.

Slouching into Spring

Spring can be cool here on the coast of Maine because the South wind is coming in off the Atlantic. The current water temperature is about 45 degrees. Over in New Hampshire they’re wearing T-shirts while we’re still wearing a jacket, or in my case this great overcoat.

In closing, this coat is everything I want to be wearing right now. It’s the right weight for morning walks and unbelievably comfortable. I love the fabric. It’s the kind of thing I would expect to see from a designer like John Varvatos. A little bit “rock star”, even for an old guy like me! And who doesn’t love linen?

PS. The “slouch” is the icing on the cake. Until next time.

Credits

Cross dyed linen - Emma One Sock https://www.emmaonesock.com

Cupro lining - Core Fabrics https://corefabricstore.com/collections/lining/products/bemberg-cupro-lining-marine